萧良才 2024-9-5 12:25
[一代综师]【人文】肯尼亚印象——安博塞利[122P]
游肯尼亚，是“天国之渡”吸引了我。
肯尼亚与毗邻的坦桑尼亚同为“天国之渡”的上演之地。每年大约先后有30万头斑马、150万头角马、50万头羚羊，为了水源和食草，在漫漫迁徙中啃食坦桑尼亚塞伦盖蒂大草原和肯尼亚马赛马拉大草原。渡过马拉河就是马赛马拉大草原。 “马拉河之渡”又称“天国之渡”非常壮观，全世界每年有20万游客涌入肯尼亚马拉河边观赏动物大迁徙。马赛马拉草原面积1500平方公里，只有塞伦盖蒂草原的十分之一，近300万“迁徙大军”像割草机一样，差不多两个月就能啃光马赛马拉。必须转场。因此，每年7、8月份是观赏肯尼亚“天国之渡”的最好时节。
肯尼亚真是天国，是世外，几乎整个国家遍布野生动物。
中国南航客机，广州直飞9200多公里，航行近11小时，于2019年8月19日凌晨，当地时间5点50分在肯尼亚首都内罗毕乔莫肯雅塔国际机场落地。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100l180000014c8j48BA2_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
肯尼亚内罗毕机场
出得机场，我们一行16名团友分乘3辆越野车，直奔安博塞利。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100q180000014ddhzC0B7_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
旅行社给出的行程图显示，这趟肯尼亚10日游将先后游览安博塞利、马赛马拉、纳瓦沙、阿布戴尔、内罗毕等地，安博塞利是第一站。
安博塞利位于肯尼亚南部，是肯尼亚与坦桑尼亚交界的边境城市，干旱、贫穷、荒无人烟。但是安博塞利国家公园动物繁多，数量巨大，充满向往、源源不断的游客驱车而至，去感受那份荒凉却又神秘的美丽。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100p180000014b81v3A86_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
我们的坐骑
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1003180000014dtgl0BED_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
我们似乎奔着荒凉而去。
越野车离开内罗毕，先走了一段比较平坦的水泥路，公路两侧逐步出现荒芜。中途休息。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1008180000014caa4FF7E_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100s180000014iyvr4DB7_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
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[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100e180000014eua573B5_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
途中休息
继续前行，最后走了半个多小时更为颠簸、沙尘飞扬的黄土路，看到有猴子高挂在路边的树梢上。午时1点，全程行驶5个多小时，“龙门客栈”终于到了。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100h180000014dnvoFC2E_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
黄土飞扬
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100e180000014euac69C4_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100m180000014lh4k05E2_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
猴子高挂树梢
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100p180000014b82049CF_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
“龙门客栈”到了
“龙门客栈”是我们入住的安博塞利AA旅舍。
乍一看，有点像中国古代荒郊野外的“黑店”，其实不然。
临近旅舍大门，见久了荒芜的我们眼前一亮，一团花簇迎宾入店。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100m180000014li2f141C_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
一团花簇迎宾入店
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100u180000014c37vF0B6_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
前厅大门 树上满是织巢鸟鸟窝
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100j180000014bmrbCE60_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
门前图腾柱
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100k180000014gara9591_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
酒店大堂
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100h180000014dotu1C8C_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100j180000014bmrrDC51_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
木排长廊
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100e180000014ev8m2AA8_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
长廊前图腾柱
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100b180000014ei7w80FF_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
工作人员将游客行李送入房间
安博塞利AA旅舍建于2011年，设计极具非洲风格。前厅气派而又别致，庭院现代而有野趣，客房布局奇特，内置温馨。整个酒店以难得一见的木排长廊为中轴，一条条拼石小道把你引向两侧的别墅客房。酒店还拥有蔬菜园、香草园、原生灌木林区、泳池、酒吧、餐厅、篝火区、商业中心等设施。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1009180000014ej2h59D7_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
客房
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100l180000014cairB3B7_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1001180000014p1ud6562_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
原始苍茫的庭院
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1006180000014cqxb879B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100m180000014lifc6C36_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
原生并不排拆美艳
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1002180000014j7fl9E72_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100b180000014eil6B262_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
游泳池
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100a180000014dg664493_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
非式“敖包”
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100p180000014b9dsF68B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
餐厅
在这不毛之地，建起一座四星酒店，建设设计者们真是费尽了心思，吃尽了辛苦！我们向他们表示敬意！
有意思的是，有两对团友夫妇拿到了一座独栋别墅。一般都会觉得，住的舒服死了，别人羡慕死了。可四周被枯草和野生灌木丛包围了呢？他们开玩笑说：“孤零零一栋房，说不定进来野生动物，晚上不敢睡了！”
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100u180000014c3jx8B3C_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100q180000014deyv1575_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
我们住的是联排别墅，安全多了。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100k180000014gb3c316B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100o180000014ba5f24C8_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100f180000014c5ba0560_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
客房阳台
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100g180000014cthbAB43_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
房间双人大床
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1009180000014ej3l084C_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
后院 真担心会有野兽出没
安博塞利AA旅舍正对着“非洲至高峰”乞力马扎罗山峰。资料上说：一望无际的草原尽头是高耸入云的山峰，山顶常年的积雪就像一件崭新雪白的皮毛，雍容华贵。平原上造型奇异的树木和偶尔经过的一群群野生动物与静止的高山构成了一幅动静相宜的壮阔画面。
行程单上亦有介绍，出发前我充满期待。
在这里我看到了“非洲至高峰”，也拍了照片，但“山”设崩塌。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100q180000014dfdb9A84_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
应该是这样（此图来自网络）
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100w180000014i66z3EAA_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
怎么是这样？
安博塞利AA旅舍看日出令人难忘，是第二天早晨的事情。
早晨6点多钟，我在酒店庭院溜达，已见东方破晓，但有房屋、灌木遮挡，不见地平线。找制高点！屋顶上不去，发现酒店的太阳能支架可攀爬，于是我把自己提升5、6米，恰好看到东非大草原上升起的太阳。下架后赶场，找好看的近景，又看到了更美的日出。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100w180000014i68q2E0A_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
小图是太阳能支架
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1001180000014p2ai001E_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100c180000014es7hD725_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100e180000014ew14081B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
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[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100n180000014b77c830C_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100i180000014ayil34BE_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
酒店的篝火区
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1001180000014p2au2CCB_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
草棚枯树照天烧
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100q180000014dffqBEB2_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
千呼万唤始出来
安博塞利AA旅舍唠叨完了，言归正传，应去看动物了。
午饭后，稍事休息，3点半出发去安博塞利国家公园，路上居然看到了长颈鹿，还没到保护区呢！
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1009180000014fhaj8B56_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
很快，仅十几分钟，越野车停靠公园门口。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100c180000014epraAF55_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
前面是野生动物保护区大门
肯尼亚的野生动物保护区为国家设立，均由J察守卫。导游去买门票，同时抛出著名的“三防”论：“路上防J察，公园防野兽，市区防小偷。”话有点偏激，但意在提醒游客注意安全。入园J察时常会索要小费，导游一番交涉。我们人未下车，耐心等待。这时许多人在车窗外兜售记念品，有团友买了一尊大象木雕制品，据说花了30美元加1合清凉油。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100v180000014n4a43B57_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
成交
4点正式入园。庞大的越野车队浩浩荡荡行进在野生动物保护区，我真担心惊吓了可爱的动物。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100h180000014dn69B9A8_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
越野车浩浩荡荡
公园内游客不能下车，司机推开天窗，大家心情激动起来。
司机沙摩师傅真不错，一边开车，一边眼观六路，我们也钻出天窗，忍受着车子的颠簸，盼望尽快与野兽们零距离接触，并且多多益善。
首先发现的是斑马，沙摩主动停车；继而看到驼鸟，又见羚羊、角马、大象、野牛、东非狒狒、火烈鸟等，最后是非洲狮。非洲狮、非洲象、黑犀牛、非洲豹和非洲水牛并称“非洲五霸”，在肯尼亚的第一天我们见到了其中三霸。
安博塞利国家公园游览2个半小时，我们尽情地饱览着不时出没的各种动物，最有感触的是象群，最震憾的是非洲狮。
这里且按动物种类让牠们一一亮相。
斑马：
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100v180000014w7eh9EDA_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
有点像南京明孝陵石象路上的石马
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100t180000014cgfeDEE9_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
马放“南山”
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1003180000014e4vg2823_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
漂亮的卧姿
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100l180000014ckntB7E0_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
求偶？
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100m180000014mgljB6D7_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
悠闲
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100r180000014atw80AF5_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
快速穿过大路
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100m180000014mglkA6B8_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
渡河
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100r180000014bhxx279E_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
驼鸟：
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100w180000014ig4h5348_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
天鹅舞
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100d180000014axm11C65_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100o180000014b96t3154_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100c180000014f23b73F9_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
哥俩好
羚羊：画面完全可以与中国古代的群鹿图、九鹿图相媲美。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100d180000014axx45E99_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100o180000014b96e3364_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100r180000014au31D0F9_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100n1800000150ak38A0D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
此景只应天上有
角马：
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100t180000014cgm9A555_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
一骑绝尘
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100a180000014dqgj13A0_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
你追我赶
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1004180000014be8aC021_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
众马奔腾
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100k180000014glff4550_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
美髯翁
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100o180000014b96k949A_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
一匹
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100p180000014bjo5B48B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
二匹
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100a180000014dqgqB2F6_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
三匹
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100o180000014b96pF1D0_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
四匹
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100u190000015p43fB084_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
大队人马
野牛（水牛）：
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100q190000015qfjp584C_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100v19000001606v05377_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100t180000014cgmu1E0D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1006180000014e54x24AA_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
水牛
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100l180000014ckvd8580_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
狒狒：
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100n180000014bhic9643_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100v180000014ngmk219C_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
火烈鸟：
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100m180000014lsre3456_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1002180000014jhrmE06D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
非洲狮。狮子处于食物链顶端，数量极少，难得一见。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100v180000014ngmj11BB_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1009180000014etfbDDEE_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100l180000014ckviD5ED_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100f180000014cfn3C019_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
最后说大象，大象是安博塞利的重头戏，聪明、热情、温柔、可笑。大象们或单独行动，或成群集队，或拖家带小，甚至与游客交流互动。
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大象们现场上演了3部情景剧。
剧一：瞧这一家子。大象小象相携而游，通达人性，其乐融融。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100g180000014d49vDE69_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
散步去
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1009180000014etvz4D69_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
将有一搏
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100d180000014ay3370BA_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
开始
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100j180000014bxwxFA48_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
角力
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100p180000014bk5jE9FB_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
缠斗
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100w180000014iglnC67B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
回府
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100g180000014d4a17883_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
亲子游
剧二：自救。一头大象不慎落入水中，或许是戏水，经过一番努力，自救成功。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100s180000014jazo703B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100k180000014glwx3760_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
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剧三：与人类和谐相处。偶遇象群排着长长的队伍，欲从相向而行车队前通过，过往车辆主动停下，让出一条通道，无声而耐心地护卫着象群安全转移。此时无声胜有声！人与大象演绎着和谐相处的交响曲。有视频为证。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100u180000014cedw9649_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
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车队象队相融，人与动物、动物之间都可共生共存，肯尼亚给出了最好的佐证。我们不仅在野生动物保护区外看到了野生动物，也在野生动物保护区内看到了牧牛人，看到了村庄，看到了公园内学校操场上运动的学生，还看到了角马、斑马、羚羊等动物在一起吃草的情景。当然，这里要排除动物界食物链上的丛林法则。
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公园里有人牧牛
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远处村庄隐约可见（这是国家公园特意保留的原住民居留地）
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100l190000015nq5e348C_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
公园里的学校操场
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群牧图
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领队
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岗哨
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对望
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水鸟
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公园里的枯树死而不朽
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天国的性格