abcd5836 2024-9-14 09:12
[一代综师]【人文】三入彩云之南 | 手绘泰州 | 水城来信，请收下这份人间食光 --1[114P]
[size=1]浮生三日闲
“尽量地学习和经历，尽量地吃好东西，人生就比较美好一些。”[/size]
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[size=1]好友：[/size]
[size=1]见信如晤，前不久去了[url=https://you.ctrip.com/place/taizhou494.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_494_l]泰州[/url]。不知你是否和我一样，最初的时候，“ 泰州 ”、“ 泰顺 ”、“ [url=https://you.ctrip.com/place/taixing1172.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_1172_l]泰兴[/url] ”傻傻分不清，更不知它是在浙江还是江苏。机缘巧合，看到一组有关[url=https://you.ctrip.com/restaurant/taizhou494.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_494_l]泰州美食[/url]的图片，一时勾起了我沉睡已久的馋虫，越看越想，再想到开始工作一月有余，每个工作日都是忙到屁滚尿流，实在觉得委屈幸苦，需要一些美味疗愈——那就走着吧！[/size]
[size=1]由于临时决定，一时三刻真找不到和我一样豁出去的朋友一同前往，独自一人也不是问题。[/size]
[size=1][url=https://you.ctrip.com/place/taizhou494.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_494_l]泰州[/url]有种魔力，一日三年，短短几天就让我觉得像是过了许久，或是因为被美食支配养成的健康作息，亦或是因为“尘世间的幸福极多”。[/size]
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[size=1]【喫早茶 | 早安，晨之味】[/size] [size=1][url=https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0103d1200086ecrw32960_R_1024_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient][img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0103d1200086ecrw32960_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img][/url][/size]
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[size=1][url=https://you.ctrip.com/place/taizhou494.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_494_l]泰州[/url]有“喝早茶”的习惯，不同于广州的早茶，日上三竿乃至中午都能喝上，泰州的早茶得要起早！这可真是难坏我了，但凡朋友中和我熟识的，都知道我是一个昼伏夜出的夜行动物，虽然现在通勤上班已经早起不少，但是在泰州为了喝上早茶，六点就起来，七点多到达古月楼，餐厅内已经是门庭若市，人声鼎沸。一笼笼的点心徜徉在氤氲的热气中，想到肚子早已饥肠辘辘，嗷嗷待哺。[/size]
[size=1]泰州人吃早茶颇有仪式感，讲究：一茶三点一面。一茶说的是，一盏茶一份烫干丝，一份烫干丝一个茶头；三点即包子、烧麦、蒸饺；一面也就是鱼汤面。[/size]
[size=1][ 干丝不怕烫 ][/size] [size=1][url=https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0100g1200086ed4d5710D_R_1024_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient][img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0100g1200086ed4d5710D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img][/url][/size]
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[size=1]烫干丝[/size]
[size=1]扬州泰州一代的早茶名点，古早的吃法是：干丝在一个敞口的盘子或碗里堆成塔状，堂倌把装在一个茶杯里的佐料——酱油、麻油、醋从上浇入，扬州烫干丝和泰州烫干丝原料和做法略有不同，口感和风味也不相同，泰州的干丝原料是豆腐干切成细丝，薄厚均匀。烫的功夫也尤其讲究，“干丝在锅中煮沸，置于一缸中，在缸中注入热碱水，水与碱的比例依季节而定，将干丝从锅中捞起，倒入碱水缸中，掌握好浸泡时间，浸久了变成浆水，浸不透则干丝不够软。”喝着热茶，吃着干丝，爽爽滑滑，回味无穷，妙不可言！[/size]
[size=1][ 蟹黄汤包的江湖地位 ][/size] [size=1][url=https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/010491200086ecgelC2BB_R_1024_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient][img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/010491200086ecgelC2BB_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img][/url][/size]
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[size=1]蟹黄汤包[/size]
[size=1]淮扬传统名点。蟹黄包子的魅力在蟹黄，而蟹黄汤包里以[url=https://you.ctrip.com/place/jingjiang1554.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_1554_l]靖江[/url]的尤其出名，蟹黄、猪厚皮、鸡汤汇聚一包之内，极度鲜美。汤包的惊人之处在于吹弹可破的皮，掂起来的时候，生怕皮破汤撒。咬一小口，吸一口汤汁，即便是美食家也无法道出其中的美妙。不像普通汤包的油腻，汤汁是略带甜味的，有着蟹黄的香气，咬一口馅，依旧出汁。据说央视的节目也曾介绍过靖江的汤包，现在正是螃蟹肥美的好时节，能吃上应季美食，实属大大的确幸。[/size]
[size=1][ 蟹黄的另一种包 ][/size] [size=1][url=https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0100i1200086ed4dlDD5A_R_1024_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient][img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0100i1200086ed4dlDD5A_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img][/url][/size]
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[size=1]蟹黄大包[/size]
[size=1]比我的拳头大上一圈，一个就有饱腹感，馅儿的用料是蟹黄 猪肉，咸甜口，比蟹黄汤包扎实许多，滋味迥然，包子皮被馅儿中的蟹黄渗到，有猪肉的香味也有蟹黄的鲜美，一笼蟹黄包需要一桌的亲朋好友一起分享，分量十足，满满当当。[/size]
[size=1][ 马兰头烧麦 ][/size] [size=1][url=https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0100p1200086ed3t08613_R_1024_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient][img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0100p1200086ed3t08613_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img][/url][/size]
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[size=1]马兰头烧麦[/size]
[size=1]马兰头是包邮区常见的ye菜，在我的家乡会用马兰头做节日才吃的春卷，这马兰头做的烧麦我是第一次见，马兰头香气浓郁，烧麦面皮筋道，刚出炉的烧麦舔着油亮的肚子，一口下去回味无穷。汪曾祺先生的故乡高邮距离泰州不远，他客居北京多年对这里的烧麦依然念念不忘。[/size]
[size=1][ 干了这碗鱼汤面 ][/size] [size=1][url=https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0101t1200086ecrxuBC5E_R_1024_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient][img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0101t1200086ecrxuBC5E_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img][/url][/size]
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[size=1]鱼汤面[/size]
[size=1]早茶中的佼佼者，光听名字不以为意，吃到第一口的时候惊艳掉了下巴。坊间常有“吃碗鱼汤面，赛过老寿星”的说法。鱼汤面不是我印象中的汤面，有鱼的香味却没有一点腥味，虽然沿海城市长大的我不怕腥味，但是这里的鱼是河流湖泊当中的河鲜，自然会有些河泥的土腥气。但是鱼汤面的汤头完全没有那个味道，由鲫鱼、shan鱼、熟猪油等原料熬煮而成，鲜掉了眉毛。除此之外，汤里有很重的胡椒味，我蛮喜欢胡椒的香气，完全不腻，不知不觉快把一整碗的面食了个干净。[/size]
[size=1][ 秧草包的出头日 ][/size] [size=1][url=https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/010741200086ecgg841D8_R_1024_10000_Q90.png?proc=autoorient][img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/010741200086ecgg841D8_R_800_10000_Q90.png?proc=autoorient[/img][/url][/size]
[size=1]秧草包[/size]
[size=1]不同于普通素菜包，秧草是我们江南这里常见的小蔬，有的时候也会被制作成菜干，但是秧草做的包子我还是头一次见到，一口下去，半口都是菜馅儿，居然不是想象中的咸口，但是半甜微咸，秧草颜色碧绿，这都是自然的颜色，最喜欢的就是这甜而不腻的味道，颇为清口。[/size]
[size=1][ 留住手艺，草炉烧饼 ][/size] [size=1][url=https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0100k1200086ecwm58975_R_1024_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient][img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0100k1200086ecwm58975_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img][/url][/size]
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[size=1]最有神秘感的[url=https://you.ctrip.com/restaurant/taizhou494.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_494_l]泰州美食[/url]，至今都没有吃到，但是不能不说说它，去古月楼吃早茶的顺道去看了一眼，结果不到八点，当天所有的烧饼已售卖一空，做烧饼的师傅可能打算睡个回笼觉。沈括《梦溪笔谈》中记载：炉丈八十，人入炉中，左右贴之，味香全美，乃为人间上品。[/size]
[size=1]这家店铺是整个泰州最后的正宗草炉烧饼，制作时，需要贴饼的师傅，半个身体进入大炉内，想想就特别辛苦且危险。现在越来越多的烧饼店选择拉盘的煤炉来替代炕烤的大炉，但是无法的替代的是，传统手艺美食的来自手的温度。没有吃上甚是可惜，不过留点小遗憾，下次再来！[/size]
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[size=1]如此丰盛的早茶，赶走了我常年的起床气，原来早晨也可以这样美妙，早安，晨之味！[/size]
[size=1]【秋风起，簖蟹正当时】[/size] [size=1][url=https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0106l1200086ecwex4C66_R_1024_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient][img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0106l1200086ecwex4C66_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img][/url][/size]
[size=1]“爬过去的才称得上‘簖蟹’”，泰州的蟹素有蟹三怪的硕大，即出水爬簖不够卖，不蒸不煮也当菜，外温内烫难老外。[/size]
[size=1]去之前我一直有个迷思，簖蟹和大闸蟹有什么区别，看着似乎是长得差不多。经过朋友们和多方查阅，原来：能爬过竹簖（竹子做的一种渔具）翻身入网的螃蟹，以溱湖簖蟹尤其出名。[/size]
[size=1]每年这个时候，簖蟹一个个膘肥体壮，膏肥黄厚。吃蟹吃蟹，吃的是蟹的膏和肉，金黄油香的膏也被拿去做各种馅儿，蟹黄汤包、蟹黄shi子头，蟹黄是一切的灵魂。[/size]
[size=1]在[url=https://you.ctrip.com/sight/taizhou494/65208.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_494_sid65208_2_l]溱潼古镇[/url]的餐厅里点上风头正盛的溱湖簖蟹，以及其他几个应季美食，田螺酿肉、银鱼炖蛋、菱角豆腐，每个都味道鲜美，现在想起来还是能下意识地咽下口水。当然，重头戏得数这簖蟹，眼见它们被五花大绑地端上餐桌，想不到在水下张牙舞爪的战斗蟹，现在已经是一身红衣，与我家乡吃蟹蘸酱油不同的是，苏南一带都用的姜醋，掰开还有点烫，几次被烫到尖叫，馋虫泛滥，痛并快乐着。要是蟹凉了，来一壶热热的花雕，持螯饮酒，实乃一桩赏心乐事。[/size]
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[size=1]吃蟹要有闲心，像这样不赶时间，从剥蟹到吃蟹都是不可多得的享受，品出蟹肉中带着的丝丝甜味，砸吧在嘴里的鲜味，至于丰腴醇厚的膏黄更是妙不可言，撩拨着味蕾，不愧是至鲜的美味。[/size]
[size=1]“微醉的对面是蟹/菊一样的清蒸/使肉嫩到了唇边/丰腴/秋天的甘美/触感到了香润/那是一生的口福/蟹黄的阳光/照亮了食欲” ——《味的道》二毛[/size]
[size=1]每年到了簖蟹成熟的季节，还有以此为主题的全蟹宴，各种吃法齐上阵，清蒸、冰醉、蟹黄包、蟹黄油……可惜我一人前来，下次非得带上一桌的朋友大快朵颐。[/size]
【风味人间，寻味淮扬菜】 [url=https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/010641200086ed6uz2C59_R_1024_10000_Q90.png?proc=autoorient][img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/010641200086ed6uz2C59_R_800_10000_Q90.png?proc=autoorient[/img][/url]
这个季节正是贴秋膘的时候，这次我可是肉眼可见的胖了，吃惯了杭帮菜的我，还是要来夸夸淮扬美食。
淮扬菜烹调讲究，雅致隽永，约上当地的三五好友，到海棠春茶社，也是这里的经典老字号，点了满满一桌，上菜的时候着实惊呆了，这端上来的菜分量大到惊人，最大的那盘或许是我看到过的最大的菜了，比新疆的大盘鸡还大几倍。
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虾籽干拌面
据说是应季的，这两个月才能吃到，看似普普通通的外表，吃起来却让人停不下来，面条筋道爽滑，葱油和虾籽鲜香融合，配上加入胡椒的面汤，又能解腻解油。
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煮干丝
既普通又高级，普通是因为原料用的豆腐干，说其高级，是因为这道菜对于刀工和火候有着极高的要求，每条干丝细如火柴棍，薄厚均匀，用沸水烫两遍，去掉豆腥味，干丝入口爽滑，与扬州的大煮干丝有些不同，后者相对绵软，而泰州的口感Q弹。配上脆香的花生米，风味绝佳。
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蟹黄shi子头
非常非常非常大，名副其实的“狮子头”，直径有超大碗的碗口那么大。拆开分成7份，每个人都吃到撑，分量十足，口感比较松软，是典型的淮扬风味，汤头里加入大量的胡椒粉，是我喜欢的，吃肉喝汤，驱寒暖身。
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蒋垛猪头肉
大俗大雅的碰撞，猪头肉本是穷人打牙祭的下酒菜，上不得台面，但是蒋垛猪头肉是一道有着百年历史的名菜，色泽红润，最妙的是肥瘦相间，弹牙爽口，欲罢不能。
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【溱潼古镇，街头赏味时间】 [url=https://you.ctrip.com/sight/taizhou494/65208.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_494_sid65208_2_l]溱潼古镇[/url]距今已有上千年的历史，一砖一瓦都有着古早之味，溱潼老街有着一股久违的熟悉感，长长的一眼望不到尽头，沿街而行，两旁的老宅挨得紧凑，有着江南院落的精致，千年的古槐树历经时间的磨练，默默地守护一方水土。临近中午，我早已饥肠辘辘，老街的烟火气已经勾引着我的哈喇子。一群群夕阳红旅游团打破了清静，商贩们热情吆喝起来，“尝一尝啦”、“免费试吃”，于是，我也跟着人群，一家一家的吃下去。
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臭干子
即臭臭的豆腐干，如何让干子闻着臭吃着香，这里头的名堂大了去了，小巷来来回回的人群，就属臭干子摊前的人最多，油锅里的干子上下翻腾，炸的金黄，皮酥里嫩，用竹签子签成一长串，再抹上自制的辣椒酱。
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黄桥烧饼
[url=https://you.ctrip.com/restaurant/taizhou494.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_494_l]泰州美食[/url]的另一张名片，一般有咸甜两种口味，咸味如肉松味、蟹黄、葱油、肉脯等等，甜味桂花、豆沙、板栗诸如此类。黄桥烧饼个个颜色金黄、胖胖圆圆、外表酥脆可口，馅料饱满丰富。尝了几个口味，都挺好吃，一口气买了20个带回去也给朋友们尝尝看。
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[url=https://you.ctrip.com/place/jingjiang1554.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_1554_l]靖江[/url]肉脯
在[url=https://you.ctrip.com/sight/taizhou494/65208.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_494_sid65208_2_l]溱潼古镇[/url]看到最多的小吃铺除了黄桥烧饼，就是[url=https://you.ctrip.com/place/jingjiang1554.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_1554_l]靖江[/url]肉脯了，色泽诱人，光是一眼就看饿了，靖江猪肉脯作为靖江的传统美食，已经有将近百年的历史，口感比较软，不是我们在超市里买到的那种硬邦邦的。
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桂花米糕
可能不是最特别的当地小吃，但是尝了刚出炉，冒着热气的米糕，吃到嘴里略烫，但是有着米的纯甄的香味。桂花的量并不是很多，还有芝麻口味。遂决定买下两盒。
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鱼圆鱼饼
古镇上还有很多现炸的鱼圆鱼饼，外地游客都争相购买，一些店家也提供真空包装，原本我只是想随便看看，顺便拍几张照片，被热情的店家邀请试吃，一圈下来肚子都吃了个半饱，鱼圆味道鲜美香滑，适合用来炒菜或者煲汤，考虑到我回家不擅长料理，就没有买，鱼圆味道如同人气，深受外地游客的喜爱。
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【溱湖湿地，船橹轻摇赏秋水】 在初秋的炎阳中前往溱湖湿地公园，入门后需要乘坐大船驶入腹地，途中能遇见一座雄伟的三面药师佛塔，与蓝天相映成影。溱湖水域方圆百里，水质清澈，湖面如镜。每年的清明节第二天还有一年一度的溱湖会船节，场面蔚为壮观，如同三国里的场景。
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上岸沿着湖上栈道，第一站便是湿地科普馆，一层为“溱湖寻迹”、主要为观鸟天堂、麋鹿故乡、绿影生灵等展区，二层介绍了溱湖的地理位置和文化风俗，三层则是最有特色的“百雀归巢”的大型场景展示。
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坐一艘摇橹船，听着渔家女的苏北小调，时光似水般流淌，人与自然的和谐共处，能体会到那“岁月静好“，微风徐徐吹来，带着一缕缕桂花的甜香，小动物们躲在湿地深处，或许它们早已知晓秋天的到来。
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这里也是美丽的生灵麋鹿的天堂，此时此刻它们正在慵懒的打盹儿，
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湿地农事乐园很像《桃花源记》里所描写的场景“土地平旷，屋舍俨然，有良田美池桑竹之属。”
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【钟楼巷，一条有故事的美食巷】 钟楼巷不大，名气也不如 桃园 老街，是个比较小众的宝藏地方，保留了老式民居，弥漫着各种街头小吃的烟火气，适合文艺爱好者前去扫街。巷内有一座古钟楼，曾经饱受战火的侵袭，钟身上留下了很多弹痕，如今一切都加上了美食的滤镜。
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傍晚时分，骑着脚踏车，感受秋风拂面，钟楼巷早已人头攒动，各种小吃香味四溢，炸串、锅贴、煎饼、汤圆、烤鸭肠……看似平凡的小店，有着吸引人味觉的魔力，串串香是必点的，几乎人手一桶，放学下课的学生，下班通勤的白领，这一刻，他们都是香味的俘虏。锅贴在锅里发出滋滋的声音，油端子在咝咝啦啦地上下翻滚，炸串被刷上一层浓郁的酱汁，目之所及都是幸福的味道。
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【夜游凤城河】 从古月楼出来，在桃园码头坐上画舫游船。白天的时候就看到水面上有很多黄色的鸭子船，可爱又复古，但是由于是一个人，觉得一人一条船太过奢侈，想想作罢。画舫游船，数十人一艘画舫，约莫能坐下二三十人，我顺利地坐在了窗边，凤城河旖旎夜景一览无余。“夜游”不愧为凤城河游览的精华，初秋的凉风习习，水面上尽是斑斓的彩灯倒影，这样的舒适时光，令人快乐上头。游览的路线是沿着凤城河两岸的景点：望海楼、梅园、桃园，巡游线路为环线，最后返回[url=https://you.ctrip.com/place/taoyuan1439.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_1439_l]桃园游[/url]船码头。
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行经凤城河，在古建筑物前停下，戏曲腔调的咿咿呀呀声，隔着水面传入耳中，曲调婉转，与身后的建筑仿佛一幅古画。
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【兴化老街，人间烟火气】 说起[url=https://you.ctrip.com/place/xinghua1946.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_1946_l]兴化[/url]，最出名的莫不过千垛油菜花，可谓是与普罗旺斯薰衣草齐名的世界级花海。可叹来不是春季，不过所幸，兴化还有其他美景，不虚此行。
赶一大早，前往[url=https://you.ctrip.com/place/xinghua1946.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_1946_l]兴化[/url]，泰州与兴化之间每天有大巴班次往来，时长一个小时不到，还挺方便。
[url=https://you.ctrip.com/place/xinghua1946.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_1946_l]兴化[/url]自古名人辈出，施耐庵在这里写下了《水浒传》，也是扬州八怪的郑板桥的故乡。
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金东门原是旧城内八字桥以东的街巷，距今有着千年的历史。曾经这里市井繁荣，留下了丰富的历史痕迹和人文古建。郑板桥故居、[url=https://you.ctrip.com/sight/xinghua1946/2479783.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_1946_sid2479783_2_l]赵海仙洋楼[/url]、[url=https://you.ctrip.com/sight/xinghua1946/1835609.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_1946_sid1835609_2_l]状元坊[/url]、[url=https://you.ctrip.com/sight/xinghua1946/2473165.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_1946_sid2473165_2_l]成家大司马府[/url]……步入这一带的特色古民居，晨光照入巷中，有一层朦胧地光雾，偶有老人走在光中，犹如记忆里童年的外婆家的小巷。
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街头巷尾充满了兴化早茶的烟火气息，穿过人声鼎沸的商铺，随意走着，早茶的摊位早已门庭若市，遇到生意好的烧饼摊，时不时听到“什么时候能轮到我？”，“还要等多久？”这样的话语。也有手工作坊制作着传统的手工锡器
[[i] 本帖最后由 abcd5836 于 2024-9-14 09:18(GMT+8) 编辑 [/i]]