abcd5836 2024-9-14 10:55
[一代综师]【人文】三入彩云之南 | 手绘泰州 | 水城来信，请收下这份人间食光 --2[115P]
[size=1]【水上森林，油画里的绿野仙踪】
索性早起，达到水上森林的时候不过早上八点半，享受了一个人包场的快乐，成片的茂密森林，在清澈的水面投出几何线条般的倒影，纵横交错的森林迷宫，头顶上不同鸟类的歌吟声，偶有几只如雪的白鹭越过水面，这里是华东地区最大的白鹭栖息湿地。迷宫的栈道上有许多鸟粪，入园前也收到提醒，常有游客被头顶的落下的鸟粪击中，所以需要戴上帽子或者伞。
这里绝对是鸟丁兴旺，它们在杉木的顶端构筑自己的小巢，养育后代，给这边远离喧嚣的密林带来勃勃的生命气息。木栈道曲折通幽，找一林中小亭坐下细赏，绿树碧水，野趣盎然。
都说绿色是生命的颜色，这样的绿是如此吸引我，像是流光溢彩的油画风景，而扇动翅膀的鸟儿如同跳舞的音符，使这一切都上升到了动静结合、视觉与听觉交织的抒情曲，仿佛掉入了绿野仙踪的童话之地。
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茂密地植被也让空气格外的清新，坐上摇橹船或林中木筏，穿梭宁静交错的水道，船行林海，碧波之上，鸟鸣之下，不敢发出过大的声响，生怕惊扰了这份静谧。“筏在林中走，人在画中游”。不知不觉重归自然的和谐与纯净之中。秋色渐渐爬上了枝头，比以往更加多彩，颜色的蜕变、流水的倒影，童话般的唯美。
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水上森林还有一份奇幻景观，早晨的水汽慢慢聚拢升腾，景物若隐若现，薄雾朦胧如纱，沉浸在雾森幻境之中，似有一种不知今夕是何夕。
【乔园，淮左第一园】
虽然苏州园林盛名在外，乔园自是遗世独立，温婉清雅。老城之中，闹市之邻，仅仅一墙之隔，园中却静谧清幽。
去了两次乔园，第一次因为行色匆忙，拍了汉服的照片直至景区关门，来不及细细欣赏，残念。便下决定，明天再去一次！
最后的午后，我在路边租了一辆电动自行车，一路骑行，凤城河的景点相聚并不远，用这样的方式也颇为便捷。
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乔园被称为“淮左第一园”，初名为[url=https://you.ctrip.com/sight/taizhou494/125677.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_494_sid125677_2_l]日涉园[/url]，头一次经过的时候看到门口碑上“日涉园”三字，以为走错地方。乔园最初为明朝太朴陈应芳主持修建，日涉两字取自陶渊明“园日涉以成趣”。后由清初高凤翰（扬州八怪之一），在假山上植三支石笋，改称为“三峰园”；辗转数年后，咸丰年间，又归两淮盐运史乔松年所有，自此称为“乔园”，沿用至今。
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入门邂逅一片幽篁，一步一景，娴雅清幽，建筑名字每个都诗意别致：皆绿山房、二分竹屋、松吹阁、蕉雨轩、文桂舫、数鱼亭……；漫步乔园，怀着闲散恬淡的心情，“轩中暮听芭蕉雨，池畔朝吹杨柳风”。蕉雨轩如其名，暮听芭蕉雨，朝吹杨柳风。
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【梅园，梅兰芳梨园人生】 泰州有戏曲文化三园：梅园、桃园、[url=https://you.ctrip.com/sight/taizhou494/65285.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_494_sid65285_2_l]柳园[/url]。梅园主要纪念京剧泰斗梅兰芳先生，梅兰芳先生祖籍江苏泰州，“凤墩留胜迹，湖水挹清芳”梅园三面环水，一面临街。
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入门的广场上一尊梅先生的雕像，坐姿端正，远视前方。参观[url=https://you.ctrip.com/sight/taizhou494/17410.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_494_sid17410_2_l]梅兰芳纪念馆[/url]，这里也是梅兰芳史料陈列区，展厅右侧有两幅照片，生活中的梅兰芳面容俊朗儒雅，舞台上的他却是仪态万千，周恩来总理写过，“梅兰芳这位伟大的艺术家，不仅仅是属于中国的，应该说，他是属于世界的。”展厅内还展出梅兰芳先生的曾经的戏服，从中感受到了戏曲艺术的独特之美，以及戏曲表演艺术家的个人的魅力。梅先生高超隽永的艺术成就感到钦佩，他高尚的爱国情怀更令人敬仰。
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走出序厅，是一处精美的园林景致，仿汉 白玉 雕栏围着一水池，水池中央是一尊汉 白玉 雕像，这是梅兰芳在《太真外传》中的扮相杨太真，优美洁白，神情逼真。
再往里走便是仿古戏台，一幅楹联概括了梅兰芳最经典的四出剧目，“惊梦别姬人天绝唱，装疯醉酒千古奇观”，对应着《游园惊梦》、《霸王别姬》、《宇宙锋》、《贵妃醉酒》。
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【回到那条老街】 从梅园出来，穿过马路便是老街，这里也是必去之地，青砖黛瓦，典型的南方特色街巷，皮包水、水包皮，书店商铺，尽显泰州的市井文化，漫步闲逛，看游人同行结伴，购买一些特产风物，收获颇丰。
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【柳园，评书大师在柳边】 [url=https://you.ctrip.com/sight/taizhou494/65285.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_494_sid65285_2_l]柳园[/url]与市井商业街相邻，是为了纪念一带评书大师柳敬亭而建。园内还有中国评书评话博物馆，相比京剧文化和戏剧文化，评书文化于我尚且陌生，展厅详细纪录展示了评书的发展史和柳敬亭大师的传奇人生，他出生于泰州，相传其中的打鱼湾曾是他的故居，园内绿植茂盛，郁郁葱葱，柳树、木樨、青竹、玉兰相交成林，曲径通幽，古韵犹存。
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邂逅音乐爱好者聚集弹唱吹奏，动听的音符跃于林间。绿林深处还有一家网红文艺书店——泰慢·城市书房，点上一杯热咖啡，看一本书，又是一个悠哉的午后。
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【望海楼，停下来发一场呆吧】 我骑着电动自行车从乔园到梅园，最后到望海楼，离开前的最后时间，我想停下来找个美丽的去处，发一场呆。
“沧海桑田，古望海楼，窗含东海日，门对海陵潮。”源于对海的崇拜，和对 海盐 运输带来财富的感恩，先民们建立了海阳楼，也就是现在的望海楼，素有“江淮第一楼”的美誉。“因海建楼、由盐致富、富而建楼。”曾经泰州是一个盐税文化兴盛的小城，商贾贸易，往来不绝，遗留下来的古建筑们依旧存在于大街小巷之中。
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文人墨客们曾经远眺大海，登高吟诵，留下了华美的诗词歌赋，使得这座建筑也充满了传奇色彩，如今海早已退却，楼仍犹在，耸立在凤城河畔。先前乘坐画舫夜游的时候，已经见识过望海楼惊艳的恢弘气势，今天步行入园，远远望去更添了几分古韵雅致，檐间彩绘精美，值得人抬头细赏。
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绕着楼墙外走至城河边，伫立许久，水面开阔，烟波浩渺，大叹水城秋意初上的自在和舒适，好不惬意，听着其他观光队的导游讲解，了解了望海楼的前世今生，楼内有电梯可以到达楼顶，目之所及，将整个凤城河畔尽收眼底。
千年古韵悠悠，初秋的微风抚慰了疲惫，又是美好的一天。
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在泰州的短短几日，顿顿滋味，回来低头一看，已经贴了不少秋膘，虽然也苦恼减肥这件事，但是依旧心满意足，大隐隐于市，是尘世生活的乐园。我真真切切地感受到这座小城里许多不曾感受的自在舒适，没想到，我一夜行动物也有变成早起快乐人的一天。
你去过的地方还挺多，认识我的人这么说。
非常惭愧，其实我去过地方并不多，每次我打开旅行相关的杂志和资讯，上面全部都是我不曾去过的地方，甚至有些连地名都不曾听过。
很多时候在一个地方拍上几张照片，和知名景点合影，就算是去过，但这也谈不上旅行。搭乘当地的交通，在这里交上朋友，知道最好吃的餐厅是哪家，就可以很自豪的说出“这地方我去过”。
社畜生活不易，每每想要大口呼吸的时候，就出去走走吧，总会有某个时刻，感受到尘世间的幸福。当我吃下那口热气腾腾的茶点，那些诸事不顺的念头悉数退散。
泰州三日，时机和缘分恰巧到来，独自一人骑车穿过街巷小道，坐过巴士到达几十公里外的兴化，喝过最地道的早茶和淮 扬美 食，有过最本初的感动。每一个充满幸福的地方都有令人陶醉的景致和难忘的美食，它会在大脑的记忆区里发着光，让人时不时想起那些微妙又清晰的有趣瞬间。泰州有烟火气，有人情味，这也是让我着迷的地方。秋收冬藏，贴膘是福，希望下次你能和我一起去趟泰州，每日都是好时光。
临颍不尽，顺颂秋祺。
关于行程 DAY1
杭州 —— 泰州 —— 凤城 河景区（[url=https://you.ctrip.com/sight/taizhou494/65285.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_494_sid65285_2_l]柳园[/url]、梅园、乔园）——钟楼巷——老街——画舫夜游 凤城 河
DAY2
古月楼早茶——溱湖湿地公园—— 溱潼古镇 ——[url=https://you.ctrip.com/sight/taizhou494/1986217.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_494_sid1986217_2_l]稻河古街区[/url]
DAY3
兴化早茶——金东门老街——[url=https://you.ctrip.com/sight/xinghua1946/125704.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_1946_sid125704_2_l]李中水上森林公园[/url]——望海楼
关于住宿 泰州稻河书香世家酒店
位于[url=https://you.ctrip.com/sight/taizhou494/1986217.html#ctm_ref=gs_290606_3975922_494_sid1986217_2_l]稻河古街区[/url]，闹中取静，风格是古色古香，青砖黛瓦的民居院落。比较特别的是智能管家“小白”，可以控制电视和空调等电子设备，每次要叫小白小白，它才会理我。
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关于美食 推荐几家我吃过觉得还不错的
古月楼：
泰州早茶的经典老店，鱼汤面好吃得我停不下来，非常的地道，汤头有鱼的香味却没有一点腥味，早上7点不到就已吃客盈门，
推荐：鱼汤面、鱼汤馄饨
海棠春茶社：
在青年南路文峰大世界，另一家在老街，刚开的新店，我去的是这家新的，全天开放的早茶店，我过去吃了晚饭，可以问服务员哪些早茶晚上还有，有一些比如像虾籽干拌面晚上都还是有的。这家就是菜比较全，口味尚佳，泰州以及周边的一些名菜基本都有。
推荐：虾籽干拌面、五味干丝、蟹黄shi子头
会宾楼：
老字号的馆子，早茶加淮扬菜，大多数游客的选择，晚餐一般需要排队，做河鲜一绝，鲜掉眉毛的那种。
推荐菜：溱湖八鲜、白汁河豚
金月楼：盲选的一家宝藏早茶店，就在我住的稻河古街，环境古色古香，价格比较实惠，性价比高，一个人光是一碗干丝都能吃撑扶墙。
推荐：烫干丝、荠菜烧卖
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[[i] 本帖最后由 abcd5836 于 2024-9-14 10:57(GMT+8) 编辑 [/i]]