席俊风 2024-9-18 13:10
[一代综师]【人文】一个人的彩云之南治愈系之旅--2[129P]
晚饭后继续被安排体验摩梭特色篝火晚会，当然免不了被商业广告忽悠一番。不过最养眼的还是在一众舞者中寻找一下有没有好看的摩梭阿妹。找来找去还是觉得这个穿着紫色衣服的气质不错，不过总感觉跟其他人有点不一样，后来经同事在朋友圈的评论提示，很可能是游客假扮的。难怪结束前一直在跟其他舞者自拍合影，大概就这么露馅了吧。看完晚会，又换乘了个住里格村的司机，带我回去。一个人又去半岛旅馆门口坐会儿，静静地欣赏月圆时分和湖中倒影，告别在泸沽湖的最后一个夜晚。
Day4（11/16，周六）泸沽湖-束河古镇-四方听音-四方街-青龙桥-九鼎龙潭-三圣宫-茶马古道博物馆
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一个人的旅行免不了遇到突发意外，幸得贵人相助，让这段行程顺利进行。早餐时听说昨晚还地震过了。热情的老板继续开车送我回到里格停车场，等候司机带我回大落水去赶回丽江的小巴。泸沽湖，一片适合治愈系的静谧时空，下回再见。回去的路上，看到好几起车祸，司机一看就说都是自驾来泸沽湖旅游的。旅行还没开始就出意外，也是挺不走运的。
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回到丽江打车前往束河古镇，继续体验慢生活的节奏。也许是周末的缘故，午后就传来各种驻唱歌手的美妙歌声。因为是淡季，相比丽江大研古城，这里显得更加冷清。下午的四方听音广场跟晚上的氛围完全不同，其实看到广场中间有个篝火坛也能猜到晚上会有什么节目。在四方街左拐就是青龙桥、九鼎龙潭和三圣宫，遇到不少来拍结婚照的新人。往回走找到了茶马古道博物馆，进去感受下属于云南的特殊历史文化。
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傍晚时分，继续搜DP去了人气餐厅——小锅饭。一份小锅饭、一碗水性杨花（对的，就是之前在泸沽湖提到过的湖中植物）、一壶普洱茶酒陪你度过这段慢时光。晚上回到四方听音广场，人超多。穿着纳西民族服装的舞者便开始带领众人享受今晚的美好时光。主持人不断提醒众人，“欢迎来到束河古镇，网红打卡圣地——四方听音。听说这个冬天跳舞和打手鼓更配哦~~”
Day5（11/17，周日）拉市海湿地公园-丽江站-昆明站-小西门-昆明老街-南屏步行街
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如果说宁蒗的名片是泸沽湖，那么玉龙的代表就是玉龙雪山和拉市海。在那山的背后就是著名的玉龙雪山，给下次丽江行留个念想吧。
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告别丽江，搭上前往昆明的动车。本来已经迷迷糊糊在打瞌睡，不知道谁说了句“好像这个火车会经过大理洱海的。”瞬间惊醒了，打开百度地图看了下铁路线的走向，还真的是诶！丽江去昆明会经过大理，有一段铁路几乎就是擦着洱海的。当火车在上关站临时停靠几分钟的时候，已经能望见远处洱海的湖面。动车票还自带环洱海观光的隐藏属性也算这段旅途中的彩蛋了吧~~
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顺利到达昆明，印象中昆明火车站有个铜牛的雕像。在出口问了下工作人员，告知铜牛就在附近，但是属于进站区域。偷偷给我开了个后门，也算来打卡过了。打车去酒店放下行李，继续出去觅食。这个点，在小西门美食街的桥香园点了这份进士过桥米线，你猜我能吃完么？哈哈哈~~
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饭后散步消化一下，路过了一片漆黑的胜利广场，继续走走便是昆明老街。商业氛围有点像上海的新天地一般，一不小心又走到这家店门口了。问了店员还是推荐现烤的保质期7天，最佳口感期是2天。如果要带手信给家人朋友，最好临走当天来买或者买真空包装的保质期是30天。周末的晚上南屏步行街挺热闹的，不过因为在修建地铁工作，所以那个牌坊被围起来了。目光被远处金光闪闪的其他牌坊所吸引，本想走过去看下拍个照，结果被栏杆给堵住了。查了地图才发现那里正是昆明地标之一的金马碧鸡坊，因为错过今晚亮灯时刻，后面两天再来的时候就有点小遗憾。
Day6（11/18，周一）云南陆军讲武堂旧址-翠湖公园-云南大学-云南师范大学-西南联大旧址-大观公园-大观楼-海埂大坝-滇池公园-金马碧鸡坊
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没想到今天会是暴走的一天，同样也是今冬昆明最冷的一天。早上从酒店附近的云南陆军讲武堂旧址开始，结果发现今天是周一。纪念馆、博物馆之类照例是闭馆一天。只得在院内随便逛逛，看看保安进行反恐操练，假装回到那个烽火岁月的比武现场。马路对面就是翠湖公园，要说在云南的一周有没有什么兴趣爱好？那一定是喂海鸥了。又见这群小生灵时，心情总是格外的欢乐。包里剩下的一点面包继续逗逗它们吧~当你看到公园游船的顶棚被它们占据叽叽喳喳的盛况时，感觉这片天地就是属于它们的。
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从翠湖公园北门出来，没走多远就是云南大学。拾阶而上是正在改造的礼堂，各种游客拍照打卡。正好到了午饭的点，继续一城一学府一食堂一打卡的旅游爱好，又要假装一回大学生了。如今的大学生应该都是00后了，找了身后一个面善的妹子说是来旅游的，想借刷饭卡吃个饭，二话不说就把饭卡借给我了。不得不称赞人家好信任我，不觉得我是坏人，哈哈哈。
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这里一片有好几个大学，从云南大学出来穿过天桥就是著名的西南联大旧址，如今的云南师范大学。说到西南联大，最近的记忆就是电影《无问西东》。如同它的校训一般，这所学府在那个年代坚卓地抗争了8年，完成了历史使命。因为是周一，西南联大博物馆也闭馆了，只有隔壁的一二一运动纪念馆开着。从云师大北门出来，有一段废弃的铁轨，据说是当年的滇缅铁路。沿着铁轨继续走过去是昆明理工大学和云大附中。当走到云南民族大学的时候，正好看到经过的22路公交车开往大观楼，便决定下一站去那边逛逛。
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本来以为在大观楼就能遥望滇池，到了后才发现不过是个小公园而已。照例有游人在喂海鸥和拍照，只是气氛有点单调。没逛一会儿就离开了，骑上一辆摩拜去往昆明标志性景点——滇池。因为天气的缘故，在滇池边走着走着更冷了。阴天伴着雾气，感觉对岸的西山一片朦胧，太阳偶尔露出一会儿小脸。漫无目的地走完海埂大坝，去到了海埂公园。
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眼前的滇池湖水一片碧绿，只是冷得已经无暇欣赏。走了一整天，这个地方也没啥公共交通，只得叫个滴滴赶紧回去。路上跟司机闲聊一会儿，感叹我竟然是一个人来旅游的，还对昆明景点蛮熟悉的。他前段时间跟团游来魔都时，只去了一个外滩，有点乏味。出于习惯，还是建议他可以让子女帮忙做点攻略，利用公共交通自己出去逛逛景点，尝尝小吃。再次回到金马碧鸡坊，结果没有等到亮灯的那份金碧辉煌。问了广场巡逻民警，说是灯坏了没人来修，尴尬。。。
Day7（11/19，周二）云南陆军讲武堂旧址-云南师范大学-西南联大博物馆-金马碧鸡坊-昆明长水国际机场
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由于周一闭馆的缘故，今天又走了一遍讲武堂和西南联大博物馆。在讲武邮局买了张明信片盖了几个纪念章，也算到此一游留作纪念了。午饭继续在云师大食堂解决~
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因为一种执念，临走前还是骑车三刷金马碧鸡坊，只为留下一张白天的照片。搭上地铁，前往昆明长水国际机场，启程返屋企。美好的云南一周即将落下帷幕。
旅行的意义在于用心去感受这个未知世界的美好，让自己茫然的心灵得到慰藉。一个人的旅行也许会感到孤单，但是有缘遇到来自各地的游人和当地人。彼此分享自己的经历与见闻，也是一种全新的认识与积累。或许未来的某一天，我们又会在某次旅行中邂逅呢。
通过这七千余字来记录下七天旅途中的点点滴滴，日后再来回忆，正是这些经历，让一个抑郁症患者重新拥抱这个世界。就像那句熟悉的话，身体和灵魂必须有一个在路上。那颗经历了治愈系之旅的心又开始憧憬着下一次的远行，谁又知道会有什么神奇的经历呢~~
彩云之南，故事未完。
旅途虽短，且行且看。
前路漫漫，不见不散。