opiio88 2024-9-22 00:13
[一代综师]【人文】七彩云南之昆明、大理、腾冲、瑞丽、罗平--1[101P]
又一次说走就走的旅行，连机票都只买了去程，两天后买的返程，才发现买往返的话可以人均省800元，没什么攻略，画了一张草图就拖儿带女的出发了
此图也就能叫个示意图吧，信手涂鸦，达不到精确，基本就是沿着中间杭瑞高速在走，云南很大，不去个七八趟玩不过来，而且有的景点有季节性，比如无量山樱花1月盛开，罗平油菜花2月最佳，东川红土地秋天最美，腾冲银杏村也是秋天金黄，香格里拉、泸沽湖避开雨季拍照漂亮......那就多只能多跑几趟
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D1：晚间11点半到达昆明的长水机场，灯火通明，入住机场附近碧丽酒店，有接送机服务
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D2：因为我们返程时是凌晨6点50的航班，第二天一早我独自去机场取我们租的车，昆明长水机场附近租车公司好多，租车很方便。关于这次租车有好多故事，一直都是用sz租车的，但是这个公司有点黑，临近春节前三天，日租金从84变为488左右，如果续租三天总价1755，我就上携程，看到同款车65一天，三天375，果断途径昆明时回机场，换了携程的车，还幸运的第一次在外地处理了一次违章，机场交警大队太给力了，中午办公不休息，因在芒市隧道内压线扣3分，罚200。
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第二天的行程是从昆明去大理，因为去腾冲要6小时车程，所以选择在大理中转。路上遇到服务区就下来走动，休息，昆明西一个读书铺服务区是我目前遇到的最贴心的服务区，有儿童乐园、书店、环境卫生、设施先进，蔚蓝的天空使我们难以抑制心中喜悦，在服务区就开始撒欢儿了
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连卫生间都这么漂亮，充满童趣，我一向认为卫生间最能体现一个单位的水平
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下午到达大理市，这个大蝴蝶就是大理市的标志了。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100k1d000001ee2zc2F64_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
驱车来到大理古城，天色已迟暮，6年前来过大理古城，城楼还是在那个地方巍然耸立，玉兰花还是在那个地方静静的开放，正所谓年年岁岁花相似、岁岁年年人不同啊
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说实话，如今的大理古城越发冷清了，跟丽江古城的差距越来越大，没有丽江古城大，也没有丽江那么热闹、浪漫、有情调
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这个总统兵马大元帅府已经下班了，没能进去参观，但是晚上在它对面的广场上看到了身着白族服装的大妈们跳广场舞
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这个好像贵州的丝娃娃
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这条街是大理古城的中心景区了，远处的苍山，美丽的雪顶，雪山总给我很神圣的感觉
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100u1d000001e9vfzD544_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10051d000001ecemp0A8E_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
饿了，遇到两位热情的白族迎宾，吃饭拍照两不误
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100h1d000001ebh733BFE_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
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这位老爷爷该评为最佳员工，特别热情、有礼貌，一看到你要拍照，立马摆出POSE配合
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冬天的云南，早晚还都是冷的，要穿个薄羽绒服，店家的炭火让人顿感温暖
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100o1d000001e8qtp1458_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
这里是白族特色菜，味道可口，价格不贵。
野山菌锅巴
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核桃仁炒腰花
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芝麻菜炒豆腐
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山笋炒肉
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石磨玉米粑粑
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华灯初上、晚霞映天
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这八卦炉烤羊肉串，不知道吃了会不会长生不老
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走进一条小吃街，刚吃的饱饱的，各色小吃也只能拍拍照了
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100m1d000001ejay65B48_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
喜洲粑粑
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[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100l1d000001ea31tF5D4_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
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竹筒梨汤、野山菌蒸蛋
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菠萝饭、紫米饭
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黑糖米糕
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臭豆腐（不臭）
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果酒店的小二哈在卖萌揽客
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吃饱喝足，逛够了，出古城左边不远梦心谷客栈入住，非常喜欢，一个有情怀的客栈
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D3：早上起来，在大街上就看到日照金顶（苍山）
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今天的第一站——崇圣寺三塔，天气真好，每次外出旅行遇到好的天气，都忍不住说：感谢老天爷
。三塔景区自然是拍塔，各种拍，一个塔、两个塔、三个塔最多能拍出六个塔
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100k1d000001ee4aq0F06_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
这是在一进门往左拐一点，一池湖水，可以拍塔的倒影。天上还挂着残月，雪山、湖水、白塔，加上游人很少，鸟鸣、清风......我等十分陶醉
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翠鸟，真美，后来在腾冲的和顺古镇又见到好几只，它的腹部是橙色闪着金光，身上的羽毛似乎有一千种你无法言说的蓝、绿色组成，你只有见过它才能真正明白汉语里翠这个字的含义
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托塔天王们诞生了
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中间的塔叫千寻塔，始建于南诏（唐朝），镇水之用，正面刻有“永镇山川”，属于风水塔，堆土建塔，挖土现塔，此三塔没有地宫，在修复时，在塔顶三层发现了大量文物，叫天宫。另外两座是宋朝建的，400多年前就开始有些倾斜，可谓中国式比萨斜塔。
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崇圣寺三塔景区是先有塔后有寺，寺庙呈中轴线布局，佛像等具有当地特色，背靠苍山、面向洱海，东西朝向，背山面水，因地制宜。大雄宝殿仿照北京故宫太和殿建造。
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寺内供奉佛像，均未拍照，有一尊十一面观音像，印象深刻，共十一张面孔，分五层排列，比较特别，据说天宝战争中，铸此佛像退军，拯救了南诏国。
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历史上有9位大理皇帝在崇圣寺出家，金庸小说《天龙八部》里叫天龙寺，圣指观音，崇圣寺在清朝烧毁，后以《张胜温画卷》为蓝本，塑像重修。
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在塔的下面有一面镜子，在这里可以拍出六个塔
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园子有我最喜欢的冬樱花。
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从崇圣寺出来，开始环海自驾，听说大理为保护生态将封闭环海路，禁止机动车通行，过去的鱼鹰捕鱼现在都看不到了，保护生态。
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脑海中最美的公路，从S221到环海东路，左边樱花烂漫，右边湖水湛蓝，带上心爱的人一起开着车，听着歌，就这样慢悠悠的行驶在环海路上，这张是去年拍的照片，今年的樱花开的不如去年好
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大理西线的景点有海舌生态公园（暂时关闭了）、蝴蝶泉（个人感觉没必要去）、喜洲古镇（去年我去过，不大，镇上电线扯的挺乱，拍照不好看，有个大院要买门票，今年就路过一下），重点带孩子们去东线的双廊、玉几岛、小普陀，大理就逛完了。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100b1d000001ecc465843_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
双廊其实是个渔村，不是古镇，最出名的是杨丽萍老师在双廊玉矶岛的太阳宫和月亮宫，这里离南诏风情岛也不远，可以轮渡上岛。去年来的时候，还可以在门口租电动摩托车，在村里骑着到处逛，今年已经都取消了，只能步行，或者坐村里的电瓶车，一人10元，单程，价格小贵，一共10元，不限次乘坐比较合理，村子又不大，所以我们就腿着
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一进门，有家餐馆，民以食为天，填饱肚子先
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蒜苗炒腊肉
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这是双廊版炒腰花
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铁板牛肉
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树皮炒蛋，这个树皮上面有些花椒大小的籽，吃起来咯吱咯吱的，倒还好
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这茶壶重点说一下，一开始没入眼，后来在罗平一家民宿，看到好多这个，叫大理土陶，古朴的美感，一直想淘一个没有嘴的单耳执壶，还没遇到
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这烤猪肉的，看着就喜庆
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100q1d000001eb8jmA98E_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100p1d000001e92y3A690_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
这个就是著名的水性杨花，泸沽湖里把手机放水里拍照特美的就是他，但是，尝试过清炒、涮火锅，味道都不太好吃
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10021d000001eh0zf4A76_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10021d000001eh0zg3A57_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100a1d000001eb9pa3867_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100g1d000001ean1k0315_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
这是村里的戏台，村子中心位置，晒了好多辣椒，红红火火
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100r1d000001e8dde3E67_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
村里很多这种窄巷子通往海边，但是，也就是到海边，没有环海路，还得折回来，倒很适合拍照
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100u1d000001e9x5p66AC_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100g1d000001ean1r821D_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10051d000001ecgcdE81C_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10061d000001eaki01A42_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]