opiio88 2024-10-11 08:23
【人文】迷失在纯净圣洁香巴拉,探秘川西秘境莲保叶则--2[100P]
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我们在这里尽情享受大自然的馈赠,静静欣赏这世外桃源般的美景,并不想再继续徒步深入到仙女湖,因为听说仙女湖实在是太小了,不过是深山中的一池碧水。
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时间尚早,我们又驾车去往达日观景台,公路蜿蜒曲折,经过达日村,便是达日观景台,这里是全村最高观景位,以从另一方向欣赏到扎尕那的全貌,鸟瞰四个藏寨和环绕它们的险峻大山,整个中央山谷尽收眼底,盘山路典型的发卡弯也清晰可见,在这里花些时间拍拍云卷云舒的延时也是非常值得的。
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盘山公路G248继续向上,那里的秘境才通向扎尕那真正的诗与远方。我们小心艰难地行驶在未铺装的碎石泥路上,幸好天气晴朗,路况才没有进一步恶化,沿着峡谷弯弯曲曲坑坑洼洼的道路一路盘旋而上,16公里路程我们几乎走了一个多小时,终于抵达了海拔4000米的那黑卡牧场,与之毗邻的,就是中国罕见的扎尕那古冰川遗址,这里才是整个扎尕那喧嚣世界里最宁静的高海拔空灵之地……高山草甸和冰山碰撞重叠在一道宏伟壮丽的分界线上,牧民放牧的牛马是这道线上缓慢悠长的音符,冰川的山峰围绕着山谷,牧草丰美,很多不知名的花朵开得无比灿烂鲜艳,谷底一条小溪细细地川流而过。那黑卡的山谷里,一座座绝地而起的突兀石峰,凌厉如削,森严如城,保存了完整的冰蚀地貌,在地理学上属罕见的第四纪冰川遗迹,身临在这座座远古而来的冰川神山之中,仿佛看到了上帝创世之初的景象,在这样的天地和时空之间,你能真切地感到人类的渺小和无力,会对大自然产生强烈的敬畏和崇拜。
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回程的时候偶遇藏民在草甸上集会,他们搭着帐篷,享受着美食,大人们围坐着聊天,孩子们在一旁追逐打闹嬉戏,一片祥和美好的氛围,举头向上望,却见峰顶有奇妙的象鼻拱门,让我们不由联想起了西藏纳木措的圣象天门,难道这与圣象天门有着什么不能言说的缘分?
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扎尕那日落在晚上八点半左右,我们在业日村的“兰州人家”边用晚餐边等待日落,这里的日落与众不同,夕阳并不在我们眼前,而是从我们背后的山峰落下,随着夕阳西下,我们眼前的山谷逐渐被范围越来越大的山峰剪影所笼罩,只有山尖上残留着余辉,逐渐被夕阳染成金红色,这也算是“日照金山”吧!
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为了方便欣赏日落日出,我们晚上就住在业日村,这里也是旅行家约瑟夫洛克曾经居住过的村子,藏家乐干净舒适,男主人憨厚,女主人勤快,孩子们更是可爱,我们事先准备了糖果,他们接过时满脸羞涩。
6月24日
扎尕那-唐克(车程210公里,唐克海拔3600米)
扎尕那的清晨更值得期盼,默默早起,再度来到兰州人家附近的观景台,阵阵风儿吹过,虽然我已羽绒加身,却依然能感觉到些许寒意,村民们此时也纷纷起床,开始了新的一天。扎尕那四面环山,烟雾不易消散,升起的炊烟与山间的云雾,紧密的交织在一起,晨曦中炊烟袅袅,云雾缭绕,初升的太阳从石头山的缝隙中投射出一道道光芒,云蒸霞蔚,宛若身处仙境,整个村庄像是佛光普照一般,麦田亮的晃眼……太阳升起后云雾消散,朦胧的山谷慢慢褪去面纱,一点点展现出缤纷的色彩和新生的温柔,晨光中静谧的村寨非常动人,像一个久远的梦,仿佛触手可及,可又不免担心它镜花水月。
在甘南,阳光仿佛是万能的,凡事,只要经过阳光的照耀,便与这片神圣的土地融为一体,故此也就变得神圣了起来。阳光,仿佛是神灵送给甘南的灵魂,甘南的阳光因为这片土地而变得无比灿烂与辉煌,在甘南的阳光里,天空湛蓝,树木翠绿,这里的空气,没有浮尘,吸上一口,淤积在肺腑深处的浊气,立即被荡尽。
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告别热情的藏民,我们启程下一段旅程——花湖。国哥告诉我们,从扎尕那到花湖有一条捷径,风景很美,人称“甘南小独库公路”,最美的风景就在路上,这样的秘境小道自然是要走上一趟。乡道550其实也是全程水泥路,路况很好但只能单车同行,遇见会车需要小心避让,另外塌方路段警惕落石,所以遇见阴雨天气就不要轻易尝试了。
沿冻列乡转入到崩巴村,藏寨小村如遗世独立,矗立村口白塔金顶泛光,塔身洁白,挂在木杆的经幡随风飞舞,公路渐渐拐进峡谷地带,前面峡谷猛然收口,中间裂开一条缝隙,恰似一道山门挡道,在靠近“石门”一片坡地,多条经幡结成经山,喻示这道天然石门在藏胞心目中的地位,坡顶有一神秘洞口,洞内有水流泻落,藏民们路过时都要来拜祭一二,石壁上留下不少他们祈福的哈达和纸钞。
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顺峡谷缓慢爬升,历尽艰险至山巅处,好像车就在云中穿行,回首一望又见绝美山崖壁立千仞,翻过这个山后就是草原,在草原中间有条小路,直通天边,几只牦牛草地悠闲啃食,大片的绿色连绵不绝。这乡道沿途,流水淙淙,森林密布,野花乱开,村庄散落,从海拔最低2500米一直到最高3600米,不停的镜头变换,一会儿在大山中逶迤盘旋,一会儿又被起伏不断的高山草甸替代,然后过渡到广袤无垠的大草原,这种不断切换的画风,观感非常奇妙,完全就像观赏3D版的Discovery风光纪录片。
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若尔盖草原拥有仅次于呼伦贝尔的全国第二大草场,宛如镶嵌在甘南与川西北高原上的巨大绿宝石,绿草茵茵,繁花似锦,璀璨夺目,芳香幽幽,一望无涯,还有许多美丽的天然湖泊点缀其间,当地人习惯称之为海子,花湖就是其中之一,静静躺在213国道旁,刚建成的游客中心诺大一片建筑却游客寥寥,显得空落静寂。
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若尔盖花湖是中国最大最平坦的湿地草原,被《中国国家地理》评选为最美沼泽湿地,四周数百亩水草地就是“高原湿地生物多样性自然保护区”,被喻为“地球的肾”。购买门票后乘坐观光车入内,到达栈道区,再沿着湖边栈道漫步,累了就坐下来休息发发呆,欣赏湖中倒影,这里蓝天白云,缱绻在水天之间的云彩,有着魔力般的妖艳,这里水色纯美,湖水透彻的蓝有着无法形容的纯净,湖畔开满野花,湖中水草丰茂,欢快的鸟儿在空中翻飞,悠闲的野鸭在草地漫步,草地中星落棋布地点缀着无数小海子,我们就这样陶醉在美景中,如入仙境。走到花湖深处,湿地呈现出平静的湖面,宛如一面镜子镶嵌在若尔盖草原之上,蓝天白云倒映在湖面,犹如“天空之镜”一般,让人分不清天地的界限,湛蓝的天空,高耸入云的山峰,空旷的草原,浩瀚的花海,相互辉映、融为一体……眼前的画面很难让我把红军过草地的故事跟这里联系在一起,据记载,若尔盖湿地可是红军三大主力唯一共同走过的草地,不经意间吞噬人的草甸陷阱,曾经让上万红军战士长眠在此,花湖无名小花的盛开,是不是就为了祭奠那些年轻的生命。
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赵轩1985 2024-10-11 09:41
莲宝叶则为青藏高原巴颜喀拉山支脉果洛山的余脉,海拔在3500米至5369米之间,最高峰5369米,终年积雪。
新生代以来,在印度板块和欧亚板块碰撞挤压作用下巴颜喀拉—松潘弧形构造带快速抬升,内部断块隆升与凹陷此起彼伏,造就莲宝叶则地区的现代地貌格局。
巴颜喀拉山旧称巴颜喀喇山,蒙古语意为“富饶的青色的山”。是庞大的昆仑山脉南支的一部分,走向为西北——东南,向西为可可西里山脉,向东与四川的岷山、邛崃山相望。巴颜喀拉山脉是青海省境内长江与黄河的分水岭,主峰位于玛多县西南、巴颜喀拉山口西北,藏语名为勒那冬日,海拔5266米。黄河发源于山脉西段海拔5202米的雅拉达泽山以东的约古宗列盆地。山地海拔多在5000米以下,约古宗列盆地及黄河源区的海拔在4500米左右。山势和缓,山前遍布大小沼泽和湖泊。,另外山区有地下永久冻土。