rowen-dcndw 2025-1-4 13:11
【人文】昆士兰之梦：凯恩斯与大堡礁的12日诗画之旅（一）[100P]
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圣新双节前几天，最终选择了往北再往北，去比艾尔利海滩（Airlie Beach）还远500来公里的凯恩斯（艾尔莉海滩距布里斯班1250多公里）单程距家1700多公里。
路途比终点重要，这是出发前的假设，所以，查景点和做攻略时，没有特意的去寻找目的地里要去的地方，大致的划了几个点，抱着能游则好，不能游也无所谓的态度，更在意路上的感受。
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大堡礁，从外太空也能看到的由数十亿微小的珊瑚虫所建构成的最大生物体，于1981年列入世界自然遗产名录，被选为世界七大自然景观之一，是世界上最大最长的珊瑚礁群，绵延伸展2600公里左右，最宽处161公里，约有2900个独立礁石以及900个大小岛屿分布在约344400平方公里的范围内，落潮时，部分的珊瑚礁露出水面形成珊瑚岛。在礁群与海岸之间是一条极方便的交通海路。风平浪静时，游船在此间通过，船下连绵不断的多彩多形的珊瑚景色，成为吸引世界各地游客来此猎奇观赏的最佳海底奇观。特别是在圣灵群岛和凯恩斯地区，观光业是这里重要的经济活动。
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前年去过圣灵群岛后，原本以为不会再往北昆去，记忆里，那是一条特别荒凉的路，越往北越荒凉。但这一次的再次出发，让我对这条路有了很多不同的感觉。也许是因为这一年多里雨水特别充沛，所以，一路上绿植满目，路况也比上次维护得好了很多，虽然中途还有很多段仍在维修中。
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做计划、订路线，安排行程，准备带的东西，连救身衣也自带了（虽然没用上）。
第一天：（12月23日），当天停 Yeppoon, 宿“The Coast Motel”
早七点出发，中途停 Gin Gin 早餐,又在 Benaraby 地区的一个大的加油站午餐。
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到牛肉之乡—Rockhampton（此处距Yeppoon余下50来公里），路过曾经停留的圣.约瑟夫.天主教堂，特意前后院绕了一整圈，拍了照，弥补上次路过只在门前打了卡的遗憾。
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下午四点到达Yeppoon，第一天行程700公里，住处The Coast Motel有相连的俱乐部和酒窖。
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海边公园-CapricornCoast National Park,其中的两个瞭望台，同一条道，一前一后，往返1.5公里，边走边看，到达顶点，望远处海面的小岛和整个海湾，再远处有更多清秀小岛。
其实北昆的海岸线外，是一个又一个美丽的小岛，有开发的可供游客上岛度假，但更多是未曾开发的。平常短假期时，就近玩一些小岛也是很好的选择。
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上、下山，一小时足矣。这里如果时间充足可以走一个5.2公里的环线，到山的另一面看日落。
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从山上下来，回到酒店对面的 WreckPoint Lookout吹晚风看日落（不在临海，在山的背面）。附近有个 Emu Park,只是从地图上看了下，有一些雕塑和礁石、沙滩。
暮色，需等候，色彩由亮转淡的过程,等到是惊喜，没等到略遗憾；但，不等待，惊喜遗憾皆无，人生少了多少乐趣！
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第二天：7:30起床出发，540公里，宿Bowen的Queens Beach Hotel。
中途停Sarina小镇，见着一只大大的蛤蟆雕像，看了介绍，是蔗地蟾蜍，昆州从Bundaberg开始，一路大片大片一眼望不到尽头的甘蔗田。我们拍照的间隙，又见着几组游客停车与其拍照合影。
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前面经停后一站到达Bowen,当地盛产芒果，是芒果之乡。进镇处有个大芒果的雕塑（Big Mango）, 在游客信息中心边上。停留去游客中心拿了本资料，买了两袋芒果干，薄片的很香甜。
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Queens Beach Hotel,酒店前院也有俱乐部,当晚是圣诞前夜，来俱乐部吃饭喝酒的人应该不少。
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远行老规矩，到一站办理入住后，打盹解乏再找附近的可玩之处。后去了Horseshoe Bay, 有很大的礁石和一条小小的沙滩，岩石对我们来说，是惊喜：既好拍照，又是坐上面吹海风远眺的最佳选择。进沙滩处有块牌子写着：Topof the Whitsundays, 圣灵群岛的顶端，圣灵群岛从这里起？
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去了Queens Beach,看资料牌上标注此处临湖处危险，禁止游泳，有鳄鱼出没和伤人的生物，而海滩上每年夏秋之季会有海龟上岸产卵。
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第三天：540公里，即将到达此行目的地——凯恩斯，宿Bailey Crystal brook
天空中心型的云：
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路过汤斯维尔（Townsville）时，下道绕去城里转了一圈，这是我们在北昆停过的最大的城市，新老建筑交相林立，街道纵横，一半面海一半内湾，当天是圣诞节正日子（12.25），街面上的店基本都关着。绕城走了一小段，晒和热，打卡后继续前行。
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从汤斯维尔出来后，天气突变，开进了风暴里，到山顶，除了雨雾，前后啥也见不着，高速上又不能停下（大部分是双向单车道的路，限速在100-110公里）只能打着雾灯一路前行。
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Cardwell 休整停留片刻
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风雨晴空的，终于到达此行目的地：凯恩斯，到酒店办入住,标准间大床房，窗外错过街道能见一小片海，酒店是环保主题酒店，钥匙牌是木制的一个小圆牌，上下电梯进房间都得用上，衣架也是纸制品，以致于以为房间的睡袍也是纸浆做的，研究半天。
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窗外的风景
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纸衣架
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卫生间色调：黑白灰
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